There’s a quaint little coastal village, way up in the North-eastern corner of the country, that you could so easily overlook on a tour of Scottish points-of-interest because it’s just a little too far from the main road, or the train doesn’t go there. But if you ever do get the chance to meander along the coastline in Moray you’d probably be pleasantly surprised to find the little row of restaurants, cafes and bars overlooking a modern foot bridge which takes you directly onto a five-mile expanse of white sand peppered with crumbling concrete world-war-two pillboxes and dunes inhabited by seals and rare ground-nesting birds. It’s too cold for most…